Akko 5075S RGB Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Gasket Mount Hot Swappable Programmable Keyboard PBT Double-shot Cherry Profile Keycaps with A Rotary Knob, Compatible for Win/Mac UK Layout

Product Information

I'm struggling to decide between the Epomaker TH80, the new Akko 5075b, and the Feker IK75 pro. There are things I like about each, but none of them fully fits the bill. I'm currently leaning towards the Epomaker TH80, but was hoping to get thoughts/opinions/experience before I make my decision. As for the feel of the board, the gasket mounting makes it quite flexible, giving it a much softer bottom out compared to a traditional tray mount keyboard. I personally very much prefer this, as the average tray mount keyboard feels rather stiff in comparison. It also produces quite a nice sound for an ABS plastic housing board… Would still prefer the sound of an aluminium board, but considering the price I definitely can’t complain. Worth noting that I already have boba u4t's and keycaps so I would prefer barebones, but am not opposed to prebuilds for extras (mainly concerning the Akko 5075b because I like the keycaps and switches that come with it). Also, I'm hoping to do a silicone mod because I like the end product. For custom RGB programming on model 5108S/3098S (EN/CN). Do NOT use this the driver if your model supports wireless. But that doesn’t mean that it’s perfect. the plastic clips instead of screws make the board harder to take apart, you can see blue, green, white and pink bleeding into the top from the indication LEDs and stabilizers, as well as any color from the sides if you have a different color from the top. You’ll also need a bigger keycap kit, as the 3x 1u keycaps on the bottom row makes it incompatible with your average 104 key set.

The lineup’s four colors are based on Pantone, thus the descriptive names. I got the Starry Night color to match it with Blue Samurai keycaps. While they’re not exactly the same shade of blue, they’re close enough that they seem to match nonetheless. If there’s any reason to buy a barebones kit, it’s having your choice of switches and keycaps to go with it. The disassembly of the 5075S took quite some effort. Where you normally find (Allen) screws, there’s nothing like it in place. Akko went with plastic clips to keep the top plate in place, which I’m honestly rather disappointed by, especially for a company aimed towards enthousiasts. While there aren’t that many reasons to take the board apart, it’s still something many like to do to change out the plate, stabilizers or dampening. If Akko decides to eventually refresh it, I would prefer to see the screw method being used here. Akko has garnered a reputation of being a great value brand in the keyboard space, first with its switches, and then with its keyboards and barebone kits. If you’re looking for something more comparable with the Glorious GMMK Pro, then you’ll want to look at the Akko MOD series, which are also made of metal instead of plastic. The thing with the 5075S and similar products from Akko is that it caters to budget-minded keyboard enthusiasts who may not like Royal Kludge, but still want something that feels premium. Final Score The Akko 5075S is a 75% gasket-mount keyboard with a plastic body, polycarbonate plate, and screwless construction. There’s a barebones kit with a hotswappable board and a body that comes in four colors, Vintage White, Blue Ash (bluish light gray), Pale Dogwood (pink), and Starry Night (dark blue). I got the last one to match my GMK Blue Samurai (clone) keycaps. This software supports the M1 HE, MG108, MG108W, MG75, MG75W, M1W Multi-mode, M7W Multi-mode, M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 Domestic Version. Note: M1/M2/M3/M5/M6 QMK International Versions could not be customized with the driver.

Assembly

NOTE: This is a full peripheral review based on the reviewer’s preferences and needs. Your needs may be different and you may find this review to not have the information you need. Reader discretion is advised. Design of the Akko 5075S

But with some prying later, I’m able to take the top plate off and reveal the internals of the keyboard. This first shows a polycarbonate plate held together by a total of twelve gaskets. After I took this off it shows an ABS plastic housing with some silicon dampening, a screwed in daughterboard for the USB-C port and a connector to the main PCB and the screwed-in transparent plastic on the sides. A small note when assembling is to first disconnect the daughterboard from the main PCB and watch out that you don’t drop the switch on the bottom, as this isn’t held together by anything but the PCB being on top of it. However, the screwless assembly is its Achilles heel as the tabs have been known to break from either repeated disassembly or sheer carelessness. That’s enough risk to make modding a hardship, but I was able to make it work with enough care. Pulling this thing apart after just getting it in the mail was a fairly harrowing experience, but the plastic wasn’t worn yet to be overly fragile. It just needs more careful planning; it’s not one for experimentation. The 5075 series consists of three different variations. The 5075S barebones, 5075S assembled and 5075B. The 5075S boards are only used wired with a removable USB-C cable, while the 5075B can be used both wired and wireless via both bluetooth and a 2.4ghz USB receiver. In this article we’re going to focus on the 5075S barebones kit. Then again, outside of the switches and keycaps being included, it’s the same base as the assembled variations. Cons: prebuild is double the price when I already have switches/keycaps ready to go, NORTH facing LEDs, rumblings about connectivity issues with previous Akko PC75bAll keycaps are made of PBT and the inscriptions are produced using the double-shot process, which is one of the most durable inscription methods to prevent wear or discolouration with use.