For the horns they are a little thin and are one of the areas people like to grab the most. So to ensure they don't snap off when you walk into a door frame because you forget you are wearing them (*Cough* *Cough*) you can fill them with expanding foam. Once the expanding foam fully expands you can duct tape the holes shut and move onto the next step. As for gluing I used hot glue on the bottom of the inside of each chunk so that it was touching only the expanding foam to keep the sword together and then used super glue around the seams to reinforce the bond and make sure that the sword wouldn't break if the expanding foam ripped. Also since I printed the tip at 0% infill and expanding foam struggled to fit inside I applied a liberal amount of superglue on the tip to prevent it from breaking. Place your dowel rod into the hole and glue it in place. Wrap your dowel rod with duct tape and spray your finished structure with Plasti-Dip. This armor piece gets it's own step because it one of the last pieces I made so it has some variation in methods as I wanted to test something new. I will also mention in this step that you should 3D print out the stamp for the "wax seal" It's a very simple file with no supports and minimal detail needed.

Make sure you are attaching your pieces together using the numbers along the sides and matching them together. Each pattern also comes with a construction guide to help illustrate where each piece goes. Remove each paper pattern piece from the foam pieces as you work. When tying up anything I tried to do minimal damage to any of the props as I thought all the props were super cool on their own and if I ever wanted to display them I didn't want them damaged. So here's what I did to tie up all the accessories. The whole process of painting massive props like this is much easier than people think. The whole process can be put into three general steps. Which is good people because it makes it easier for me to summarise ;)Create the Knight’s nail by cutting 4 identical triangles about 4” wide and 30” long and 2 equally long strips about 1 inch wide. (A perfect resource for making the nail is by seeing if your local Joann’s or other fabric shop has an empty bolt used for apparel fabric that they can give you. Apparel fabric bolts are the perfect size and shape.) For the top of the nail, cut a diamond-like shape out of your cardboard with a hole in the middle for your dowel rod to go through. Cut these same shapes out of your foam.

So when it came to making this costume I had done multiple iterations of some parts. One of these parts being the Chestplate. I thought both were great each having their pros and cons and I'll go into each below. (When I cover how each was made I'm not going to cover assembly and painting techniques as they follow the same techniques for assembling and painting metal armor as mentioned in previous steps)Layer Line: 0.2-0.08mm (It fluctuates depending on the detail, how long you are willing to wait, and the amount of support you want to use. Typically 0.2mm if its low detail and little support like the chest plate and 0.08mm if it's detail is marginally higher but you don't want tons of supports) This belt is used to tie together all the oddities and references, and it's rather simple. I used the image of a template I found online as a guide (No there was not a printable version it is literally just the image I worked off of). Make sure to delete one half then save the file as an stl. Once you have saved you can hit ctrl + z to restore the half you deleted. Then just delete the half you saved and save the other half.