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Furniture Clinic Danish Oil for Wood - Premium Oil to Enhance The Natural Beauty of Oak, Pine & More - Seal & Protect for a Satin Finish. 500ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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I would remove the oil you've already applied with white spirit (may take several goes), check with Howdens what they recommend these days and use that instead. I had to dilute the first coat with white spirit (a bit like a mist coat with paint) , then two coats full strength. Whilst you are oiling, you do not want the hard-wax (resin) sitting freely on the surface, living a life of its own.

Per his instructions I let them dry for a few days and sprayed on 2 coats 1 pound cut of blond shellac. As with any coating, surface preparation is extremely important in getting a satisfactory end result. Go over the entire surface with light pressure, as if you are trying to polish the surface whilst removing the excess. In damp areas to ensure adequate protection (such as kitchens and bathrooms) more coats with be required. Secondly they said "Once you have sealed any wood with an oil there is nothing you can place over the top.If you have oak worktops, we recommend using our Worktop Maintenance Kit, which includes the Danish Oil. The performance of Danish Oil will continue to improve naturally for a week or two after application.

It is likely that the oil has broken down and let water in, oak left without a finish will naturally turn a silver grey as it ages. If you want your wood to stay as close to the freshly sanded colour as poss a standard water-bourne finish is the thing to use, but these do the least to enhance figure and chatoyance (cat's eye effect) as seen in spades in Bob's boxes above. Briefly, the dry time between coats is just enough to make putting on the next coat work well but the product is likely not fully dry by then and it's certainly not cured (the part of the drying process that occurs after the drying phase).Our premium cleaning and restoration products meet the highest professional demands yet are packaged and designed to remain easy-to-use for everyone. On the other hand, if you completely nailed the process and you are happy with your results, I would also be happy to hear back from you with some photos and comments! Personally I prefer to strip off all hardware and lay flat but doing two coats each side had turned into a very long job. Our Danish Oil has been formulated to seal and finish any wooden surface as well as reoiling wood for maintenance.

Yes, you can use Danish oil to protect things like your outdoor furniture, but the finish will wear away quickly, and it won’t offer long-term protection. Once clean, leave the oak to dry, then sand it with another Sanding Pad (but this time, without the Wood Cleaner). The idea of this method is to keep the wood surface’wet’ with Danish Oil for at least an hour until it has fully absorbed enough oil to provide a natural protective coating from deep within the wood.If I was doing say door trim, I would apply with a foam brush on the first side of each piece, rotate them,. To protect the treated oak, avoid direct sunlight and keep it away from sources of heat and humidity. Apply with a brush or lint-free cotton cloth and allow to penetrate for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping off the excess with a clean lint-free cloth. Is the oak going black all over or just around any fixings, if the latter it's the tannin in the wood reacting with the iron in the metal, you should use brass or stainless steel on oak. A foam backed, De-nibbing Pad removes "nibs" and imperfections in finishes and should be used in between coats of the Danish Oil, and when you have applied the final coat to create a super smooth finish.

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