Start with a ~30-inch 1x4 and rip the 10- and 6-degree angles (see Figure X) and then cut a pair of at 14 inches in length. Try to use the same board for both lower head andtoe boards and upper head andtoe boards on side panels so that the same board widths and wood grain match at the elbow where the coffin bends. Are you considering taking on the task of building a coffin yourself? Whether you take the opportunity to work by yourself or together with friends and family, crafting a coffin for a loved one can be memorable and therapeutic. When I built my first coffin for my Grandfather with the help of my father, bother, and sister, we found the experience of working together to be comforting and satisfying. We built a coffin for Grandpa that was inexpensive, sturdy, and beautiful in a traditional coffin design that expressed my Grandfather's affection for the Old West. Cut outside ends of end panel at 10 degrees from vertical. The narrowest (outside) length should be 16 inches. Last, find a good space to work. A sturdy, flat table or workbench will make for a nice comfortable working environment to measure, cut, prepare, and assemble your coffin. In the photos you will see we are using a torsion box table in our workshop. Set yourself up on a table or picnic table outside if you don't have adequate garage space or access to a workshop. 3) Prepare the Cut List

Cut head angle at ~10 degrees and toe angle at ~6 degrees. Measure 24 inches from top and mark widest points; then trace lines to head and toe. Cut outside ends of toe panel at 6 degrees from vertical. The narrowest (outside) length should be 12 inches. Designed to last a literal lifetime(and beyond), the shelves feature natural wood that will darken, stain, or bleach in the sun over their lifetime. When the owner dies, the pieces easily reassemble into a coffin that will bear the marks of years of use. A brass plate under the bottom shelf can be engraved with your personal details. Warren first showed the Shelves for Life at 2005’s London Design Festival, appropriately showcasing them in the British Library. He makes his designs available for free online, so anyone can make their own coffin bookshelf using his template. If you decide to build your own, don’t forget to send Warren a photo. He’d love to see them! Lakin’s pieces not only serve multiple purposes, but cost less than half as much as the average casket, making more than a symbolic statement.For bookworms contemplating their final plans, a new invention promises a practical, stylish, and environmentally conscious option for storing your favorite possessions—and, when the time comes, your own body. Called “Shelves for Life,” the bookshelf/coffin combo is the brainchild of British designer William Warren . After serving as a bookshelf, the piece converts into a coffin custom-fit to its owner. The bookshelf that converts to a coffin Leave room between the lower end of each rib and the floor frame rails for the floor boards to fit.Unless you intend to run the boards through a joiner-planer for a perfect smooth edge, there is no need to glue the edge of the top andbottom boards for the side and end panels. The ribs will provide enough strength without edge gluing the side panels.If you use screws and glue to join the ribs, you can remove the screws after the glue dries--after about 24 hours. 6) Assemble the Floor and Sides

Notice that on the inside of the casket, the rope tightly wraps around the side ribs and corner ribs. As you lace the rope, pull it as tight as you can--the long handles will have plenty of stretch for a nice comfortable grip on the casket. When you get to the final handle, tie a tight knot again to keep the rope from slipping out. When finished, there should be 3 long handles along both sides of the coffin, 1 handle on the Head, and 1 very short handle on the Foot for a total of 8 rope handles. 8) Finishing Touches

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When finished with the floor, turn the casket over and add a rib that ties together all of the floor boards. In addition to lumber, you need to equip yourself with some Elmer's wood glue, screws (or nails), or other wood fastener system. These instructions use a traditional rib design with glue and screws for easy construction and superior holding strength of the wood joinery (see figure 3). This design also accommodates removal of the wood screws after the glue dries (about 24 hours) to meet the 100% biodegradablerequirements of several natural burial and conservation cemeteries. You should now have all the boards cut and ready to make six side panels including a head panel (16x18), a toe panel (12x18), two long (toe) side panels (56.375x18), and two short (head) side panels (24.375x18). We will attach a 1x2 to the bottom edge of all size side panels. This member will serve as the floor support for the casket transferring the weight on the floor to the sides of the casket in a shear plane (vs. a tension joint) adding strength of the coffin. These rails need not extend all the way to the outside edges of each side panel--each rail should be 1-2 inches short at each end to leave clearance room for the vertical ribs on the adjacent side panel.Particularly at the middle joint between the head (short) and toe (long) panels you will want to leave at least 2 inches to make room for the 4-inch joiner rib. 5) Assemble the Side Panels andLid